Half the job is blanching and squeezing
Namul are vegetables blanched or sautéed and then dressed with seasoning. They appear on almost every Korean table and also go into bibimbap. The flavor depends first on blanching time and squeezing, more than on the seasoning. Overcook them and they turn yellowish and mushy; squeeze too little and the seasoning gets diluted, tastes bland and spoils quickly. Since the seasoning is mostly the same, salt or soup soy sauce, garlic, sesame oil and seeds, this guide focuses on how each vegetable is prepared and cooked. Mastering just spinach, soybean sprouts and bracken is enough to fill out a table.
Spinach namul (example for two)
Spinach needs a short blanch to keep its color and texture. The reddish root ends are sweet, so wash off the soil and keep them. Split thick roots in two with a knife so everything cooks evenly.
- 1 bunch spinach (about 200 to 300 g), a little salt
- Seasoning: a little soup soy sauce or salt, 1/2 tsp minced garlic, 1 tbsp sesame oil, sesame seeds
- Add a little salt to boiling water and blanch the spinach for about 30 seconds
- Rinse immediately in cold water to stop the cooking and squeeze firmly with both hands
- Cut into easy pieces, mix in the garlic and salt first, then the sesame oil and seeds
Soybean sprout namul (example for two)
The key with soybean sprouts is to cook them crisp without a raw, beany smell. People often say opening and closing the lid causes the smell, but the real point is not to leave them undercooked. If you cover the pot, keep it covered until they are done; if you start uncovered, keep it open and cook them fully.
- About 200 to 300 g soybean sprouts, 1/2 to 1 cup water, a little salt
- Seasoning: a little salt, 1/2 tsp minced garlic, 1 tbsp chopped green onion, 1 tbsp sesame oil, sesame seeds, chili flakes (optional)
- Put the sprouts, water and salt in a pot, cover and cook over medium heat for about 5 minutes
- Drain in a colander, spread out to cool and let the water drip off
- Add the seasoning and toss lightly with your fingertips
Bracken namul (example for two)
Bracken is never eaten raw. Dried bracken needs soaking overnight, thorough boiling and another soak, so beginners are better off with pre-boiled, packaged bracken. Bracken namul is sautéed rather than simply dressed.
- About 200 g boiled bracken
- Seasoning: 1 tbsp soup soy sauce, 1/2 tbsp minced garlic, 1 tbsp sesame oil, plus perilla oil if you have it
- Rinse and drain the bracken and trim off the tough stem ends
- Toss it in the seasoning, let it sit about 10 minutes, then stir-fry over medium heat
- Add 3 to 4 tbsp water or broth, cover and cook until tender
When it is soggy, bland or smells raw
Soggy namul means the vegetables were not squeezed enough, or they sat too long after dressing and released water. Squeeze firmly with both hands, but press rather than wring hard, or the fibers get crushed. Adding more salt to bland namul draws out even more water, so season accurately from the start and dress just before eating. Soybean sprouts that smell raw are undercooked; give them a little longer. Tough spinach may be thick-stemmed winter spinach, so drop the stems in a few seconds before the leaves.
Order of seasoning
The order of seasoning changes the result. Salt or soy sauce and garlic usually go in first so the flavor soaks in, with sesame oil added later. Add the oil first and it coats the vegetables, keeping the seasoning from penetrating. Toss lightly with your fingertips so the vegetables are not bruised. Soup soy sauce is light in color and keeps the vegetables bright, while regular soy sauce darkens them and adds a little sweetness.
- Step 1: salt or soup soy sauce, minced garlic
- Step 2: aromatics such as chopped green onion or chili flakes
- Step 3: finish with sesame oil and seeds
Finding ingredients abroad
In Japan, spinach and soybean sprouts are easy to find in supermarkets, and boiled, packaged bracken is common. Without soybean sprouts, use mung bean sprouts the same way but blanch them briefly, for 1 to 2 minutes. Japanese light soy sauce works well in place of soup soy sauce to keep colors bright. In English-speaking countries, spinach and mung bean sprouts are in regular supermarkets, while soybean sprouts and bracken are at Asian grocers. Familiar vegetables such as broccoli or zucchini also make good namul with the same seasoning.
Storage and allergies
Blanched vegetables hold a lot of water and spoil easily. Store dressed namul in an airtight container in the fridge and eat within two to three days; discard it if it smells off or feels slimy. When making a large batch, store the vegetables blanched and squeezed but undressed, and season only what you will eat, so they stay good longer. Sesame oil and seeds contain sesame, and soy sauce contains soy and wheat, so check for allergies. Leafy greens like spinach often hold soil, so wash them several times under running water.
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